Laurie's Blogs.

I get questions from time to time, mostly from physiotherapists who are less familiar with handling fractious or temperamental dogs, about how to deal with dogs that might bite. In the Members section of the FourLeg website, I do have the Powerpoint handouts that I created on the topic of handling, but then I thought of some of the other things I do, perhaps less consciously when handling these kinds of patients. 

So, if you have ever taken a course from me or seen me at work, I like to position myself behind the dog.  If they are lying down, I throw one of my legs over them (for restraint and also because the deep pressure is calming).  If I am turning the dog’s head and neck, I always scruff the side I am pushing from… not too meanly, but just enough that I could squeeze tighter if he/she went to snap.  As well, know that a dog who snaps is most likely to try to go for your face or your hands… so just be aware of how you position yourself.  There’s more in the handouts…

But in this blog I wanted to talk about the ‘mental’ aspects of dealing with a nasty or fearful dog.

1)    Don’t be afraid to get bitten.  Not that you want to be bitten, and you do all you can to prevent putting yourself in a vulnerable position… but realize that one bite is not a big deal.

2)    Calm yourself even further (i.e. be grounded, take charge, release fear)

3)    A big dog may need the owner to hold the head.  Whereas, You might be best tohold a small dog closely.  In either scenario, muzzle as necessary.

4)    Squeeze and hold firmly and confidently.  Do not be wishy-washy with your touch.

5)    Acknowledge when you have found a pain point.  I am constantly saying, “I hear you,” or “oooookay,” and then I give the dog a little tap-tap, or rub with my fingertips.  At the same time, I consciously relax my body slightly.  When I go on to retest or test another spot, I hold firmly again.

6)    Talk to the dog the whole time (even the deaf ones… because it can change YOUR body messaging).  Praise when they are doing well, and dealing with your touch, but continue to hang on to them.

7)    Reward good behaviour with a treat (i.e. even just a piece of kibble works well), but maintain a degree of ‘aloofness’ in regards to wanting to be friends.

8)    Reprimand with ‘No’ for bad behaviour (i.e. trying to bite), while tightening your hold.  These can be power struggles, and so long as you are safe, let the dog know that you must win in this scenario. (“I’m sorry, but you have to stay lying down.”  “I know you’re nervous, but you can’t bite Auntie Laurie.”)  Keep hold of the animal.  If you are working with a small dog you may have to lift him/her up into the air to stop the behaviour.

9)    An ‘unreasonable’ dog may need to be ‘drugged’.  I usually recommend that the owner discuss what to use and dosaging with their veterinarian.  In Canada, there is an over-the-counter product for nausea (Gravol) that works well.

I also think that half the battle is in reading dog body language and taking a little extra time in doing your assessment or re-evaluation.

I hope these ideas & suggestions are useful to some of you.  Until next time…

Cheers!

Laurie